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shower water problem

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S7 K1ll3rKlown
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Post by S7 Coolhand Thu Nov 08, 2012 9:31 am

So I installed canopy shower curtain rods last night (had to drill into tile - that took a lot of time and effort, but that is another story) and was all set to have my first hot shower in the new place (which I need bad now) But I discovered that I don't have hot water from either shower. They get slightly warm or 'not cold' but not warm or hot. I already adjusted the water tank and my sinks get hot. The showers have plenty of water pressure when set to hot. They are both single handle. Everything in the house has been recently renovated so all this stuff is new. I am thinking I need to remove the handle, turn the little gear, and reposition the handle. Hoping that is all it is and it is that easy. Like how you can make a little blowtorch from a lighter that has an adjustment lever. Anyone faced this before? My plumbing experience consists of replacing the wand, chain, and stopper in toilets. I really don't want to spend money on a plumber if it is something I can do.
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Post by S7 K1ll3rKlown Thu Nov 08, 2012 9:48 am

Most problems like that are caused by some crud in the line. Seems a coincidence both showers at once, and neither sink. Do you have shutoff valves before the showers, perhaps behind a panel in the wall? If so, shut the hot water off and loosen the pipe to the shower valve. See if any crud comes out. Maybe even turn the shower on allowing the cold water to back flush the crud out of the hot. If that doesn't work, try turning the valve on with the pipe loose and see if you get much water water out. If not, the clog is before the valve, maybe right at it. Shut the main hot water off if you can, or all the water. Unscrew the top of the valve if you can and see if there is crud.
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Post by S7 Coolhand Thu Nov 08, 2012 9:54 am

No shutoffs for the showers, no panels - the walls throughout were recently replastered and painted, so cutting in is the last thing I want. Wouldn't I see a pressure problem if the hot was blocked since I'm cranking them all the way to hot so no cold should be coming out? Is the valve behind the handle? That is really the only area I will be able to access w/o screwing up the walls. Also, the hot water tank is brand new so should be no sediment problem there.
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Post by S7 K1ll3rKlown Thu Nov 08, 2012 10:00 am

Who is the supplier? i.e. Delta? To access the valve, you should be able to remove the handle and the face plate. You should see screwdriver stops where the water enters the valve. If not turn off the water. Now unscrew the bonnet nut and pull out the stem unit assembly. This will expose the seats and springs. Remove them and check the opening for crud or blockage. Now, while the valve is open turn on the hot water and flush out the supply line. You should have a full stream. If so, reassemble. If not then the blockage is further downstream and you may have to call in outside help. Got a cousin or co-worker that's done light plumbing? buy some beer and have him take a look. Should be something simple.
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Post by S7 DROOPY Thu Nov 08, 2012 10:02 am

If both of the showers have the same handle I would start there, the people that installed them might have put the stop washer/piece backwards, it should be a round piece that has a tab that stops it from going left or right. Google the shower handle and get the install pdf and disamantle one of the shower handles and check for correct install. you should have a shut off valve on your hot water tank at the top for the hot water going to the house usally the right side and you should have a shut off valve from the main (cold water) coming into the hotwater tank (left). If your hot water pressure in the sink is weak you may need to flush your hotwater tank. Klown advice is what I would try if the valves are installed correctly. But I would take the guts out shower valve and use a wrench to turn the valve stem to see if you get hot water. Some of the Valve stems are different in length and if the replaced old ones with new ones that do not screw out as much then you will not get enough hot water ever.
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Post by S7 DROOPY Thu Nov 08, 2012 10:05 am

home owners note: if the city ever works on the water main,then you need to flush your water system or isloate the hot water tank during their repair and run outside facets for awhile after their repair to fulshout the mud and rust created during the water main break.
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Post by S7 K1ll3rKlown Thu Nov 08, 2012 10:09 am

Yep...great advice Droop.
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Post by S7 Coolhand Fri Nov 09, 2012 2:12 pm

Fixed x2! Removed the handle, removed the faceplate and gasket. removed the metal gear the handle controls, pulled off the red plastic gear and repositioned it on the grey gear so it gets more hot water range. Replaced the metal gear, resealed the faceplate and gasket with bath silicone, replaced handle, then rinse & repeat for other bathroom. Thank for the tips.
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Post by Atrum Fri Nov 09, 2012 2:17 pm

I have decided I am not nearly handy enough for home ownership because of this thread. lol
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Post by S7 SecurityGuy Fri Nov 09, 2012 3:49 pm

S7 DROOPY wrote:home owners note: if the city ever works on the water main,then you need to flush your water system or isloate the hot water tank during their repair and run outside facets for awhile after their repair to fulshout the mud and rust created during the water main break.

Or you could just plumb in a string filter for about twenty bucks and not have to worry about it except once a year change the filter. That's what I do but I have a well.
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Post by Abominatus Sat Nov 10, 2012 7:26 pm

Scald guard. Yep. Sorry I didnt see this before now or i could have helped you. Being a plumber and all.
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Post by S7 Coolhand Sun Nov 11, 2012 2:23 am

Abominatus wrote:Scald guard. Yep. Sorry I didnt see this before now or i could have helped you. Being a plumber and all.
Exactly! sh1tty installation - it was a simple fix though.
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