Pics of my MAZDASPEED3
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Pics of my MAZDASPEED3
Here she is. Tearin up the streets of Arizona. (Well... not in the pics.. but you get what i mean....)
S7 Riff Raff- Private First Class
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Re: Pics of my MAZDASPEED3
Very nice Raff! Congratz again bro.
S7 Interseptor- Clan Advisor
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Re: Pics of my MAZDASPEED3
Oh, sh1t, they've put the steering column on the wrong side!!!
S7 Epic- Sergeant Major
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Re: Pics of my MAZDASPEED3
Nice ride bro! I have always had a thing for hatchbacks I drive a 03 civic si hatchback.
S7 KnightOwl- Brigadier General
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Re: Pics of my MAZDASPEED3
S7 KnightOwl wrote:Nice ride bro! I have always had a thing for hatchbacks I drive a 03 civic si hatchback.
dont even get me started~~~~!!!! lol jk jk
S7 Sticky- Brigadier General
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Re: Pics of my MAZDASPEED3
Sweet ride
S7 Coolhand- Posts : 5771
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Re: Pics of my MAZDASPEED3
I really need to learn manual. The disappointed thing is we have a manual car buts its so touchy I am horrible at it. Its like it was designed for my little sister to drive.
Re: Pics of my MAZDASPEED3
Save the manual....And Panzer, allow me to provide a bit of instruction:
All right.
I think the first thing to do is understand the basics of what is going on. I don't know if you know these basics, but I'll cover them anyway.
The engine and transmission are connected by the clutch. The clutch consists of a pressure plate, which is a device with springs in it, and the clutch disc which is made of a material similar to your brake pads.
The clutch disc rests against the flywheel, which is connected to the crankshaft. The pressure plate holds the disc against the flywheel using springs.
The clutch slides on to a splined shaft, called the input shaft, of the transmission. It can slide on these splines. When you step on the clutch, you are pulling the clutch disc away from the flywheel, disengaging the engine from the transmission, or, more specifically, the clutch disc from the flywheel.
The first thing to understand is that many people over complicate shifting. It's really pretty basic.
First of all, double clutching is a method utilized for transmissions without synchros, and is a method used for driving heavy trucks. There is no need for it in a passenger car.
Second. It goes without saying that using the clutch to hold the car on a hill is silly. You are wasting the clutch, and it's not a safe practice.
So. The first thing in actually driving away, is the launch, or taking off.
When someone is first learning how to drive a manual, they should practice in an empty parking lot.
Starting off in first, you should slowly let the clutch out while paying attention to where it first starts to drag the engine down. Note what point the pedal is at in it's upward travel at the point the clutch begins to drag on the engine, or, engage.
When you become familiarized with that point, you should know that this is also the point you should apply a little bit of throttle. This should be one smooth movement. Your leg starts to let the clutch pedal up, and, as it starts to engage, you are applying throttle at that point, while continuing to release the clutch in a smooth manner. You should be able to let the clutch pedal up relatively quickly, not fast, but smoothly, as you accelerate. Picture your leg going up and your foot going down at the same time in one smooth motion.
A similar method is used as you shift through the gears. When you are ready to shift to second, you begin to depress the clutch pedal, or disengage the clutch, as your hand moves the shifter out of first gear. When the clutch is fully disengaged, or the pedal is all the way down, the shifter should just be entering second gear. Just as you enter second, your left leg should be releasing the clutch, and your right foot should be rolling on to the throttle as the clutch engages. You will know where it engages by feel, and from your practice starting which caused you to memorize at which point in the pedal's travel your clutch begins to engage.
Also picture your arm and your clutch leg moving at the same time. As your leg is pressing the clutch pedal, your right arm is moving the shifter from 1st to 2nd gear. Obviously your clutch leg starts a bit before your arm movement, but once your clutch leg is moving, your arm should be moving the shifter.
The reason it's easier to get rolling in reverse is because reverse is a lower gear. The lower the gear the easier to get the car moving. The gear has a different number of teeth on it, as does each gear in the transmission.
Picture a bicycle. Same principle. Different amount of teeth = different ratios.
As for downshifting, don't be scared of rev matching. Like starting off and shifting, all it takes is practice.
If, for example, you want to downshift from 3rd to second at a given speed, what you should first do, is drive along in second at that speed, and pay attention to where the rpm is at that speed.
So, if we are now driving along at that speed in 3rd gear, we know that we must be at 'x' rpm to rev match the downshift to second gear.
So, to do the downshift, you step on the clutch as your arm pulls the shifter out of 3rd gear and into second gear. At the point where the clutch is fully disengaged, your right foot blips the throttle up to just above the rpm you know you need to be at for that speed in second gear, and just after blipping the throttle, your left leg lets the clutch out. Quickly, smoothly, but not suddenly. If you do it right, the car should not lurch at all. It takes practice, and paying attention to what rpm your engine is at at a particular speed and in a particular gear, so that you know what you have to rev it up to to perform a particular downshift at that speed.
When you practice, and pay attention, after a while, it will become so second nature. I've done it for so long, I can't even give you an example of exact rpm vs speed vs gear in my car. I just know it by listening.
The biggest key to practicing rev matching on your downshifts is to start by doing it at lower rpm. That way, when you f#ck it up until you get used to it, the car is not lurching,and you aren't hurting anything, and won't lose control. You can really f#ck sh1t up if you try it at to high a speed and too high an rpm.
And remember, pay attention. When you do it, as you let the clutch out, if the engine rpm jumps and/or the car lurches because you misjudged, simply step on the clutch quickly and try again.
That's the biggest thing. People over complicate it, and wind up actually not paying attention to the rpm, the speed, and what those two are at versus a given gear. Your left leg and your right foot control everything. By paying attention, your brain will memorize where to rev it up to on the downshift, and if you also listen, you should eventually be able to do it by ear.
One final word on hills. Obviously you understand that you don't use the clutch to hold the car. You use the brakes.
So, once you have learned at what point your clutch begins to engage, you simply keep your right foot on the brake, begin to let the clutch out, and just as it begins to engage you shift your right foot on to the gas pedal and roll on to the throttle.
Rolling is a key word. Practice controlling your ankle. Driving a big truck is good practice, because some of them ride so rough, that when you're a new driver, the bouncing truck will cause your right foot to bounce, making your shifting all herky-jerky. So when you are learning, you quickly learn to focus on forcing your right foot to roll on to the throttle. Even if you botch a shift, don't let your right foot jerk around. Always picture your foot rolling on to the throttle smoothly.
Just pay attention to your rpm, speed, and what the two are like in each gear, and remember. And listen to the engine as you do it.
Using the parking brake to start off from a hill.
Really, you don't even need the handbrake to start off on a hill. Maybe when you're learning? But in over 25 years of driving stick, I've never done that once. And I taught myself to drive manual. It just takes practice is all. If you can use the handbrake in conjunction with the proper timing of clutch engagement and throttle application, then you can use the foot brake in conjunction with proper timing. It just takes a smooth, controlled, quick foot, and practice, to
-let the clutch out while your foot is still on the service brake
-keep your foot on the service brake until the clutch just begins to engage
-right at the point of engagement, quickly move your foot over from the brake to the gas, as you are simultaneously releasing the clutch pedal, and apply a touch of accelerator. That part is the key and takes the most practice. Too little, and you stall the engine. Too much, and you're lighting up the tires or lurching.
But no matter what you're doing, unless you're trying to do a burnout or f#ck around, always picture your foot rolling on and off the pedal. It doesn't mean you can't move your foot quickly if necessary, but firmly roll on and off the accelerator in a controlled fashion. Don't let your foot flop around on the pedal. That is what causes the lurching. Not the improper clutch engagement timing. The improper timing requires an adjustment from your throttle foot. Less, or more. And of course, if you panic and dump the clutch, and/or give it a shot of throttle, the car jumps forward- causing your foot to go up and down on the pedal.
Picture your right foot, ankle, and throttle pedal as being disconnected from the rest of the car. These three things are floating in their own suspension system, unaffected by the car's lurching, and no matter what the car does, your foot is firmly and smoothly applying or releasing the throttle.
Master that, and you won't ever need to use the parking bake to start off.
Thus endeth today's lesson. Next time we'll cover power shifting. lol
All right.
I think the first thing to do is understand the basics of what is going on. I don't know if you know these basics, but I'll cover them anyway.
The engine and transmission are connected by the clutch. The clutch consists of a pressure plate, which is a device with springs in it, and the clutch disc which is made of a material similar to your brake pads.
The clutch disc rests against the flywheel, which is connected to the crankshaft. The pressure plate holds the disc against the flywheel using springs.
The clutch slides on to a splined shaft, called the input shaft, of the transmission. It can slide on these splines. When you step on the clutch, you are pulling the clutch disc away from the flywheel, disengaging the engine from the transmission, or, more specifically, the clutch disc from the flywheel.
The first thing to understand is that many people over complicate shifting. It's really pretty basic.
First of all, double clutching is a method utilized for transmissions without synchros, and is a method used for driving heavy trucks. There is no need for it in a passenger car.
Second. It goes without saying that using the clutch to hold the car on a hill is silly. You are wasting the clutch, and it's not a safe practice.
So. The first thing in actually driving away, is the launch, or taking off.
When someone is first learning how to drive a manual, they should practice in an empty parking lot.
Starting off in first, you should slowly let the clutch out while paying attention to where it first starts to drag the engine down. Note what point the pedal is at in it's upward travel at the point the clutch begins to drag on the engine, or, engage.
When you become familiarized with that point, you should know that this is also the point you should apply a little bit of throttle. This should be one smooth movement. Your leg starts to let the clutch pedal up, and, as it starts to engage, you are applying throttle at that point, while continuing to release the clutch in a smooth manner. You should be able to let the clutch pedal up relatively quickly, not fast, but smoothly, as you accelerate. Picture your leg going up and your foot going down at the same time in one smooth motion.
A similar method is used as you shift through the gears. When you are ready to shift to second, you begin to depress the clutch pedal, or disengage the clutch, as your hand moves the shifter out of first gear. When the clutch is fully disengaged, or the pedal is all the way down, the shifter should just be entering second gear. Just as you enter second, your left leg should be releasing the clutch, and your right foot should be rolling on to the throttle as the clutch engages. You will know where it engages by feel, and from your practice starting which caused you to memorize at which point in the pedal's travel your clutch begins to engage.
Also picture your arm and your clutch leg moving at the same time. As your leg is pressing the clutch pedal, your right arm is moving the shifter from 1st to 2nd gear. Obviously your clutch leg starts a bit before your arm movement, but once your clutch leg is moving, your arm should be moving the shifter.
The reason it's easier to get rolling in reverse is because reverse is a lower gear. The lower the gear the easier to get the car moving. The gear has a different number of teeth on it, as does each gear in the transmission.
Picture a bicycle. Same principle. Different amount of teeth = different ratios.
As for downshifting, don't be scared of rev matching. Like starting off and shifting, all it takes is practice.
If, for example, you want to downshift from 3rd to second at a given speed, what you should first do, is drive along in second at that speed, and pay attention to where the rpm is at that speed.
So, if we are now driving along at that speed in 3rd gear, we know that we must be at 'x' rpm to rev match the downshift to second gear.
So, to do the downshift, you step on the clutch as your arm pulls the shifter out of 3rd gear and into second gear. At the point where the clutch is fully disengaged, your right foot blips the throttle up to just above the rpm you know you need to be at for that speed in second gear, and just after blipping the throttle, your left leg lets the clutch out. Quickly, smoothly, but not suddenly. If you do it right, the car should not lurch at all. It takes practice, and paying attention to what rpm your engine is at at a particular speed and in a particular gear, so that you know what you have to rev it up to to perform a particular downshift at that speed.
When you practice, and pay attention, after a while, it will become so second nature. I've done it for so long, I can't even give you an example of exact rpm vs speed vs gear in my car. I just know it by listening.
The biggest key to practicing rev matching on your downshifts is to start by doing it at lower rpm. That way, when you f#ck it up until you get used to it, the car is not lurching,and you aren't hurting anything, and won't lose control. You can really f#ck sh1t up if you try it at to high a speed and too high an rpm.
And remember, pay attention. When you do it, as you let the clutch out, if the engine rpm jumps and/or the car lurches because you misjudged, simply step on the clutch quickly and try again.
That's the biggest thing. People over complicate it, and wind up actually not paying attention to the rpm, the speed, and what those two are at versus a given gear. Your left leg and your right foot control everything. By paying attention, your brain will memorize where to rev it up to on the downshift, and if you also listen, you should eventually be able to do it by ear.
One final word on hills. Obviously you understand that you don't use the clutch to hold the car. You use the brakes.
So, once you have learned at what point your clutch begins to engage, you simply keep your right foot on the brake, begin to let the clutch out, and just as it begins to engage you shift your right foot on to the gas pedal and roll on to the throttle.
Rolling is a key word. Practice controlling your ankle. Driving a big truck is good practice, because some of them ride so rough, that when you're a new driver, the bouncing truck will cause your right foot to bounce, making your shifting all herky-jerky. So when you are learning, you quickly learn to focus on forcing your right foot to roll on to the throttle. Even if you botch a shift, don't let your right foot jerk around. Always picture your foot rolling on to the throttle smoothly.
Just pay attention to your rpm, speed, and what the two are like in each gear, and remember. And listen to the engine as you do it.
Using the parking brake to start off from a hill.
Really, you don't even need the handbrake to start off on a hill. Maybe when you're learning? But in over 25 years of driving stick, I've never done that once. And I taught myself to drive manual. It just takes practice is all. If you can use the handbrake in conjunction with the proper timing of clutch engagement and throttle application, then you can use the foot brake in conjunction with proper timing. It just takes a smooth, controlled, quick foot, and practice, to
-let the clutch out while your foot is still on the service brake
-keep your foot on the service brake until the clutch just begins to engage
-right at the point of engagement, quickly move your foot over from the brake to the gas, as you are simultaneously releasing the clutch pedal, and apply a touch of accelerator. That part is the key and takes the most practice. Too little, and you stall the engine. Too much, and you're lighting up the tires or lurching.
But no matter what you're doing, unless you're trying to do a burnout or f#ck around, always picture your foot rolling on and off the pedal. It doesn't mean you can't move your foot quickly if necessary, but firmly roll on and off the accelerator in a controlled fashion. Don't let your foot flop around on the pedal. That is what causes the lurching. Not the improper clutch engagement timing. The improper timing requires an adjustment from your throttle foot. Less, or more. And of course, if you panic and dump the clutch, and/or give it a shot of throttle, the car jumps forward- causing your foot to go up and down on the pedal.
Picture your right foot, ankle, and throttle pedal as being disconnected from the rest of the car. These three things are floating in their own suspension system, unaffected by the car's lurching, and no matter what the car does, your foot is firmly and smoothly applying or releasing the throttle.
Master that, and you won't ever need to use the parking bake to start off.
Thus endeth today's lesson. Next time we'll cover power shifting. lol
S7 K1ll3rKlown- Colonel
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Re: Pics of my MAZDASPEED3
As I was so busy telling you how to do it, I forgot to tell you what you're doing...LOL
just a basic guide, and again it depends on your car and the gear ratio but a "when to shift" guide would look like this:
Launch >1st gear
20 Mph>2nd
30 Mph>3rd
40 Mph>4th
50 Mph>5th
60 Mph>6th
most turns>2nd gear
approaching red light, clutch in, gearshift in neutral, foot off clutch, apply brake as needed to coast to a safe stop. Never sit at the light holding in the clutch.
just a basic guide, and again it depends on your car and the gear ratio but a "when to shift" guide would look like this:
Launch >1st gear
20 Mph>2nd
30 Mph>3rd
40 Mph>4th
50 Mph>5th
60 Mph>6th
most turns>2nd gear
approaching red light, clutch in, gearshift in neutral, foot off clutch, apply brake as needed to coast to a safe stop. Never sit at the light holding in the clutch.
S7 K1ll3rKlown- Colonel
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Re: Pics of my MAZDASPEED3
Haha... I hate when dudes ride the clutch... i want to slap the sh1t out of them.
S7 Riff Raff- Private First Class
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Re: Pics of my MAZDASPEED3
Klown, you spent entirely too long writing that.
That being said, very good writeup.
That being said, very good writeup.
Atrum- Colonel
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Re: Pics of my MAZDASPEED3
Good read klown my dad talked about almost all of this stuff and specifically said to not ride the clutch at a stoplight. Right now school is keeping me busying and with 30 degree weather and snow on the ground ill wait tell spring or summer break to try it again. The big problem I had was transferring what I know to manual which is pretty much mass down the gas if you want to go forward and hit the break when you want to stop ( automatic 2000 ford ranger). The problem that kept recurring was launching, I was putting to much gas down which made my foot slip applying more gas, but after launching I could shift with relative ease.
Re: Pics of my MAZDASPEED3
Cliff notes: ease on gas, ease off clutch. Bucking = bad, burning smell = badAtrumX wrote:Klown, you spent entirely too long writing that.
That being said, very good writeup.
when on a hill in traffic scream, and ask for adult assistance
S7 K1ll3rKlown- Colonel
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Re: Pics of my MAZDASPEED3
S7 K1ll3rKlown wrote:
Cliff notes: ease on gas, ease off clutch. Bucking = bad, burning smell = bad
when on a hill in traffic scream, and ask for adult assistance
Lol, burning smell isn't always just bad. Sometimes it's a mix of fun too.
Atrum- Colonel
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Re: Pics of my MAZDASPEED3
oooooooooo butttttooonnnssss
S7 wonky- Sergeant Major
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Re: Pics of my MAZDASPEED3
AtrumX wrote:S7 K1ll3rKlown wrote:
Cliff notes: ease on gas, ease off clutch. Bucking = bad, burning smell = bad
when on a hill in traffic scream, and ask for adult assistance
Lol, burning smell isn't always just bad. Sometimes it's a mix of fun too.
Just for those who prefer not to read.
https://youtu.be/rqtctkznYjk
S7 K1ll3rKlown- Colonel
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Re: Pics of my MAZDASPEED3
Very nice! love the hood. great color too.
just cuz you're a good guy, i wont r@pe one next time i see one out on the street
just cuz you're a good guy, i wont r@pe one next time i see one out on the street
S7 Nate- Clan Advisor
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